Japan - Day 4: Tokyo to Hakone (by many types of train)

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Tokyo to Hakone (by subway, scenic train, mountain train, cable car, and ropeway): Catherine, Gina, and i embarked on an extremely touristy scenic adventure, carrying an unwieldy amount of luggage. The Tokyo-Hakone adventure route is a well-trodden path by which you take a scenic train called the Romancecar southwest into the mountain range west of Tokyo, then climb over Mount Hakone via an increasingly-improbable string of other types of train. We arrived at the lake and had a short walk to our resort hotel, Hanaori, whose lake views were not exaggerated. We sat on the porch and ate and enjoyed the fresh mochi we'd picked up at our lunch stop, put our feet in the foot bath on the hotel deck, then had dinner at the hotel buffet and called it a night.


bicycles seen out the window: if you don't have a bottle cage, you have to keep your coffee cup in your front basket

one last shot of our tiny hotel room in Tokyo (Gina for scale) and its great view of Ueno Park

we stopped at Delifrance again for more red bean pastry breakfast

Birds of Japan: a crane among seedpods

marsh and a walkway surround the crane

back to the picnic tables by Ueno Pond to enjoy our sesame red bean breakfast

water, marsh, cherry blossoms, city: still a great view

this sundial is off by 20 minutes

Ueno Park temple roofs

cherry blossoms and seedpods on the water

at Ueno Park, you can rent swan boats with bowties

important warning: don't feed the swan boats

something is disturbing the water in the pond

look at that

whoa

on the train to Shinjuku: these dinosaurs are clearly hugging

riding through Tokyo on the train to Shinjuku

train tracks and buildings near Shinjuku

our train to Hakone is called the Romancecar, no sorry, the Limited Express Romancecar

wall art showing historical Romancecar hardware

current Romancecar hardware

in true tourist train fashion, the banks of seats can be flipped around

leaving Shinjuku

roofs of Komae, in southwest Tokyo

bridge over the Tama River

interior of Romancecar

houses on a hill and a yard with a citrus tree

buildings and houses by a canal

houses, roofs, mountainside

after Machida, we start to see mountains in the distance

tracks and buildings near Ebina Station

past Ebina, the mountains are starting to pick up...

crossing the Sagami River

mountains, right?

a cemetery, round trees, houses, and mountains

train tracks at Isehara Station

fields, houses, and mountains

train snack: onigiri!

town in the foothills

crossing a river

hey, waitasec, that's Mount Fuji

it is enormous and the same color as the sky

you cannot miss it

but all of your photos are like 'huh, nice ... bike stand?'

large invisible Mount Fuji

medium-sized invisible Mount Fuji, behind other mountains

okay, enough of that, back to your regularly-scheduled trees and mountains

INVISIBLE MOUNT FUJI

past Odawara, things start to look very mountainy

a cemetery

tile roofs in great colors, and an alley

mountain terraces, seen from the train

riding along the Haya River

train station in the mountains

view through the train, entering Hakone-Yumoto

Hakone-Yumoto, train station and pedestrian mall

tracks for the mountain train we'll take after lunch

the wild boar is a symbol of Hakone in some way

apartment building in Hakone

mountains behind the Haya River

bridge over the Haya River

pedestrian bridge over the Haya from which i'm taking photos while we wait for our table

Birds of Japan: hanging out in a gutter

Hatsuhana Soba Honten, where we're waiting for a table

the view from our table: a green restaurant-owned space by the river

Gina got this egg and yam paste dipping sauce for her soba

my soba came in soup form, precombined with egg, yam paste, and wasabi

a building in Hakone-Yumoto

wild boar theme, you say?

pedestrian walkway and mountains

street and mountains in Hakone-Yumoto

back in the station waiting for a mountain train (please note that the floor is inclined)

Catherine on the mountain train

and we're off!

flowers and a stone wall

the train passes a shrine (Fukazawa Zeniarai Benzaiten, i think)

a bridge over the Hayakawa Gorge

we start seeing hillsides dotted with cherry trees

the train tracks run right by the cliff in many places, separated by a fence

the front of the train by a switchback

view down a valley past many rooftops

hillside dotted with many many cherry trees

the road below us curves through the trees

honestly, this could be an ad for an action movie or a warning to stay off the tracks, it works either way

a waterfall! note intimidating-looking staircase to the left

the walkway to the right of the waterfall is less steep, but also no joke

if you lived in that yellow house, you'd have an amazing view of cherry trees, but i don't envy the maintenance

mountain train tracks

we didn't get to visit the Hakone Open-Air Museum's sculpture garden, but the glimpse as the train passed looked very cool

last view from the mountain train

now we're in Gora, transferring to the cable car

in line for the cable car, a subway-style train that continues straight up the mountain on a fixed track

a train car in Gora with a friendly hedgehog mascot

Gina, on the cable car

leaving Gora

interior of cable car, note the stairstep floor

thatched roof plus round trees

looking back at rooftops and a flowering tree

a more-or-less comprehensible subway map of our route

at some of the cable car stops, they announced multiple times that there was no way to cross the tracks, so be sure to exit on the side you intend

leaves seen from the cable car

view from Sounzan Station, at the top of the cable car

you can see the cable car tracks pointing back to Gora

more cherry-blossom-dotted hillside

a house in the foothills among many types of trees

cable car track from above

view past the observation platform into the mountains

i am in this picture

the next part of our journey is on the Hakone Ropeway

this really is what i would have called a cable car, individual cars suspended from a cable

display case to reassure tourists (look, the cable you will be hanging from is very thick)

the ropeway cars were fairly large with comfortable benches

a fringe benefit of the comical amount of luggage we were carrying is that the three of us got half a car to ourselves

off we go!

view down from the ropeway toward valley and road

explanatory map showing when to look for Mount Fuji while riding the ropeway

the views of the landscape were excellent

clusters of hotels and buildings north of the ropeway track

Gina looking out the window

the view back to Sounzan and Gora below us

about to climb a steep ridge to Owakudani Station

hang on, remember what that cartoon map was saying?

MOUNT FUJI

also some seriously impressive geothermal vents

such energy. so green.

view past the ridge we're climbing

it never got less foggy, but Mount Fuji is still impressive

more geothermal vents

entering Owakudani Station

ropeway cars on the segment below Owakudani

geothermal infrastructure buildings

ropeway cables and pulleys

the last leg of our journey is descending through a forest towards Togendai and Lake Hakone

an epic shot of cable cars, trees, mountains, and Mount Fuji, foiled by late afternoon glare

our first view of Lake Hakone (the pirate ship will be discussed in more detail later)

last glimpse of Mount Fuji in the mist

descending among a number of ropeway cars

approaching Togendai Station at the edge of the lake

the view from our resort hotel room is quite acceptable

sitting area and porch of our room at Hakone Ashinoko Hanaori

view down the lake

fog rolling over the mountains at twilight

ropeway car approaching Togendai Station at twilight

raw fish appetizers at the buffet dinner (squid, octopus, yellowfin mash, mackerel with mustard, salmon with salmon roe)

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