Japan - Day 13: Tsunoshima to Hagi (by bike)

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Tsunoshima to Nagato (by van): in part because of the rain and in part because of the roads, we started out the day with a ride out of town, to a reasonable place to get on bikes.


Insomnia Collection: bridge to Tsunoshima Island in the early morning

it's a cloudy morning and a messy shot, but look how clear the water is

the van is ready to go with our bikes

getting in the van to ride a bit east for our start

low clearance? no problem

hitting the road

public roadside art by the water

trees, rock wall, road

buildings by the water

Nagato to Hagi (by bike, 42km): all of us except Catherine biked along the coastline all morning, stopping at an oceanside cafe for tea and coffee, at the grounds of a shrine to eat the lunch we'd brought, and finally at the ruined Hagi Castle to walk around.


biking off in our raingear into a canal-side neighborhood

buildings on either side of the canal

Dana, Paul, Tom, and David cross the street

a flooded field full of cranes

the rest of the group riding away while i photograph cranes (spoiler: it took me like 10 minutes to catch up with them)

David contemplates a change in direction

electric meters of Japan

view along the coast towards fog-covered mountains

more rough seas

geometric breakwaters, a town in the mountains, a group of cyclists

breakwater action shot

house snowman at Beach Side Tadonohama cafe, where we stopped for coffee

it's nice to be seeing the rain through a window

Sarah, David, and Tom in our booth

Gina has given up on the indoors and gone out to look for shells

shell-gathering action shot

the tea arrives (i don't remember its nature)

Gina returns with the spoils of her shell-gathering mission

inside of a spiral shell

sea urchin and its spines

underside of sea urchin

we should probably think about getting underway again

sign inside the cafe

front door of the cafe

preparing to get underway

riders, passing a phone booth

a smokestack, reflected in two different choppinesses of water

buildings and mountains across the water

a bird, seemingly at random, spreads its wings

climbing up the steps to a shrine on whose grounds we'll eat lunch

handwashing station with pointy dragon

a harpoon?

Rei on the shrine grounds

view from the shrine grounds

my lunch, tuna mayonnaise onigiri (aka tuna salad)

an archway with a crane and some other things happening

many roofs and several fishes

Sarah, Tom, David, and Paul, riding

green fields, hills, and trees

Gina, riding

David, climbing

the sea, the sea!

colors of cloud, sky, water, island

the road rounding a curve into the trees

view along the coastline from the top of a climb

Sarah and Tom, checking out the view

the view

my bike, in front of the view

canal wall with ladder

canal running down the valley in front of houses

trees full of covered citruses

here are some uncovered citruses also

one theory is that the bags are to prevent cross-pollination

David, rounding a curve

looking down at the road ahead

cyclists from the future on the road ahead

steps up to a cemetary

many red roofs

Tom, David, and Paul, back at the coast

the van, containing Rei and Catherine, has caught up

waves against the rocks

Tom and David

anti-avalanche cover

train tracks in Sanmi

this tree is trying very hard

our stone-lined route

tree root growing in the wall

look, a forest

trees by the roadside

birds on a rock

Tom, taking photos in front of the coast

more coast, rocks, surf

street view doesn't know what that red thing is, and neither do i

Gina, pausing

Dana, at the top of the avalanche barrier maintenance staircase

the sign says not to use this road, but our guide says it's okay

the San'in Main Line, from above

the road was closed because of this rockslide we are walking past

rockslide netting

egregiously out-of-focus photo of the rockslide itself

the end of the closed segment

trees and fallen petals as we return to the coast again

more citruses!

canal in Hagi

around Hagi Castle and to the hotel (on foot and by bike): we walked around the castle grounds, then quickly finished our ride to check in at the hotel.


crossing the canal into the Hagi Castle area

koi!

a turtle, and the mouth of a fish

there were quite a number of fish

this turtle is on land for some reason

Hagi Castle was built at the beginning of the 17th century, and dismantled during the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th century

castle walls with stone staircases

a large tree

wisteria! (attractive to both humans and bees, we learned)

torii gate

discussion of a poem by Kodama Kagai

a carved stone on the castle grounds

this tree was next to a sign about how the Midoriyoshino cherry is named for its green outer layer and is only found in Hagi, so your guess is as good as mine, but let's say these are those cherries

a taiko bashi, or drum-style bridge

shape-sorter lantern!

many little vine leaves growing on a tree

pentagons tiling the plane

a well

Shizukiyama Shrine

remains of castle tower

a decorative turtle

a turtle family on a rock

a turtle swimming with a baby turtle

Sarah, on the castle tower

moat view from castle tower

ruins across the moat

tree-covered hillside

view towards the town of Hagi

Gina, returning from some ruins

David and Tom, walking along the wall

Gina, standing on the wall

time to get our bikes and head to the hotel

Gina, climbing down from the wall

around Hagi old town (on foot): we wandered around the old town of Hagi, visting a couple of temples and many former residences of notable people in the Meiji Restoration who were from Hagi. Then we went to the onsen, and then had another banquet dinner, followed by a brief conversation about manga, and a walk outside to look at the full moon.


i liked this painting in our hotel lobby, 'Waiting for the Spring' by Kazusa Nosaka

an octagonal tower

canal in Hagi which used to be the castle outer moat

a building with an asymmetrical roof

a building with many roofs

first in a set of tiles along the canal in Hagi

we think they are telling the story of the tradespeople of the town

third tile

fourth tile

ducks in the canal

former Kubota family residence, which we walked by but didn't go in

lacquered wood

look, a crane!

it was initially so still that i wasn't sure it was alive, but then it shifted to a different position and took off

decorative map of part of the old town of Hagi, showing the birthplaces of several members of the Meiji government, who grew up together

a field with fruit trees

a wood door

the bucket for a well

a cleared area of dirt around a tree

according to a sign, houses in the Edo period were forbidden to have second stories, so some had second stories hidden from the street

Gina and Catherine outside the former residence of Aoki Shusuke

stone outside the residence

whoa, a giant wooden horse

backing up a step, we are at the Enseiji Temple, which celebrates the animals of the zodiac

statue with cap and smock

enormous bamboo

visual discussion of the animals celebrated at this temple

a tengu mask

you could get a book, and use it to collect stamps from temples across Japan

that brings us back to this very impressive wooden horse

a bell

a field

an admirable sentiment (may peace prevail on earth)

a carved block

a wooden scene including a pig

a street in Hagi's old town

a path in a field in Hagi's old town

a dragon in a shop

a street in the town

a decorated bamboo stick

a pottery shop and the street beyond

a garden on the other side of a wooden door

a cat participating in side-eye

a building in Hagi

a cartoon about bike helmets

statue of Giichi Tanaka, i think

some neat roof tile edges

Cats of Japan: just hanging out

Cats of Japan: on a fence

a gap in a lacquered wood wall

the old gate to the tenement house of the Hanzawa Family

Resort Hotel Mihagi, where we are staying

breakwaters off the coast of Hagi

a bit later, early sunset over the breakwaters

nice clouds

fish in hotel gift shop

mice in hotel gift shop

giant wasp nest on display at hotel

banquet dinner starts with this sampler plate

we have a nice sunset view from our dining room

banquet dinner: what's in that bowl?

banquet dinner: note the koi chopstick rest, and the lasagna-ish dish in the back left

banquet dinner: that must be an eggplant, but i don't have notes about this course

the miso soup contained a very nice sesame tofu

banquet dinner: dessert

after dinner, Gina checks out the manga library

we went outside with Catherine to investigate the full moon

the full moon

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